1) Core differences (mechanism & use-cases)

If you frequently meet concrete or need larger anchor holes, an SDS rotary hammer is more efficient and less fatiguing. For mixed home tasks in wood/metal with occasional small brick holes, a hammer drill covers more ground.

2) Pick by material & hole size

3) Chucks, shanks & bit systems

• Standard drill: keyless 13 mm chuck; accepts cylindrical hex/round shanks.
• SDS+: 10 mm shank with slots; rapid bit changes; typical for 6–28 mm holes.
• SDS-Max: larger shank for heavy-duty concrete and chiselling.

Don’t mix systems: SDS bits need SDS chucks (or an adapter). Adapters add length and can introduce runout — fine for light duties, not ideal for precision anchors.

4) Bits & drilling strategy

• Wood: brad-point for clean entry, auger for deep holes, spade for fast roughing; clear chips to avoid burn marks.
• Metal: HSS cobalt; pilot first, then step up; cutting oil reduces heat and extends life.
• Masonry: carbide-tipped; let percussion do the work — don’t lean heavily on the tool.

In concrete, periodic “pecking” helps evacuate dust; in wood, use a sacrificial backer to prevent tear-out; in thin sheet metal, step bits prevent grabbing.

5) Power, torque & clutch

• Voltage platforms: 12V for compact tasks; 18V is the sweet spot; 36V for high-demand drilling and hole saws.
• Gearing: low gear for torque (large bits, screws); high gear for small bits in wood/metal.
• Clutch: protects fasteners and your wrist; set it to the screw length and material.

6) Anchors & fasteners overview

7) Safety & ergonomics

• Use side handles and stance control with large bits; anti-kickback clutches are worth it.
• Eye/ear protection; dust extraction on concrete extends bit life and visibility.
• Locate services: avoid hidden wiring/pipes; use detectors when unsure.

8) Troubleshooting

• Bit glazing / smoke: too much RPM, no lubricant (metal) or dull bit — slow down or replace.
• Wandering start: center-punch metal; use brad-point on wood; pilot holes help on hard materials.
• Chipped brick edges: back off percussion near exits; support the far side if possible.

9) When to choose each tool

• Mostly wood/metal + occasional brick up to 10–12 mm: hammer drill.
• Regular concrete anchors or holes ≥12 mm: SDS+ rotary hammer.
• Large structural penetrations, chiselling, channeling: SDS-Max rotary hammer.